Temple run

We technically walked but you get it

Oct 03, 2025

Top of Mind

We had our first 12 hour sleep of the trip, and feeling fully jet lag free now.

And I’m back into Pokemon Go baby! I’ve been going spin mode on these pokestops. Haven’t made any friends or trades yet, and haven’t beat any raids, but I’ve see at least 2 people playing, so I know there’s a community out there.

Kyoto is by far the most tourist-bursting place we’ve been to so far. It seems like maybe even more touristy than Tokyo? Our goal for this leg is to find some more jawns off the beaten path, and/or go out of central Kyoto for more day trips.

10/2

Today we were doing temple run. As in, We went to four temples: Ginkaku-ji with it’s sweeping garden and views of the city from atop, Kenninji (aka dragon temple), Sanjūsangendō and it’s 1000 (and one gigantic) Kannon statues**, finally resting at Hōkan-ji for the sunset. I wish my feet had the same enthusiasm as my eyes and arms.

We got these prayer books where, at each temple, we can pay for a goshuin – a hand-written prayer with related stamp/seal, unique to each temple. I imagine we’ll be getting more of these for the rest of the trip.

Cash only is the word here. We’ve been having a terrible batting average for “guess if this establishment takes card”, with lots of repeated walks back to the closest convenience store for the ATM and toire (toilet). On one particular occasion I accidentally gave the host a korean bill, having not familiarizing myself with the paper yen and causing confused laughter from the host and my skin to turn beet red.

What I ate

We are on the hunt for the most delicious and local cuisine. This morning we ate breakfast at a sub sandwich shop that sold american bacon egg and cheese*. It was inside this beautiful establishment with big tall wooden beams and a small bar in the center where we sat.

I’m finding that restaurants and bars are quite intimate here, with most establishments having 1 person behind the counter running the host stand, register and grill. Even moreso, we have often been the only people inside. And it’s pretty fantastic as far as service and BTS goes, given we nearly always watch the chef make, garnish, and serve the food. It can be a bit awkward sometimes, since you have to make firm eye contact with them for additional services, as opposed to them coming back around to check in.

Anyway the sandwiches slapped. Lunch was curry cheese bun, standard issue.

We stopped by this coffee shop woven*** into the narrow streets in northeast Kyoto, a bit out of the way but close by to one of the shrines. The owner was behind the counter, spinning some amazing jazz and preparing the latest batch of coffee beans, which he had roasted himself. It was fire.

Speaking of jazz, it’s everywhere here. It’s in the convenience stores visa vi renditions of old western pop songs. Speaker systems are well thought out and feature incredible pieces. Lots of people spinning their own collection.

Which brings us to Bar Quasimodo. We met up with a friend from work and his posse at this ambient-lit bar shaped like a small train car made of the finest wood furnishings - with an incredibly robust sound system - for our first bar top round of drinks.

Inside, the owner sat at a table smoking a cigar to himself. He was an older man, wearing this 3 piece suit without a jacket, and the vest was this deep green. He walked behind the bar, picked a record to play - almost as if he already knew what he wanted - and the room filled with Frankie Newton. We sat in silence enjoying our drinks and the music together until my coworker and his crew arrived.

We had these gin cocktails with grape (classic) and it was fire, as well as a Greenwich Sour (hey that’s New York style!).

We headed to this ramen bar, bladders full, and found the restaurant to have already closed, among other several nearby.

Fate took over and we headed for the steakhouse nextdoor since A) we like steak, B) it had a bathroom, and C) it was open late. And it did not disappoint! The wagyu was juicy and tender, served in a skillet where it continued to cook until the last bite, alongside some beautiful onions and veggies.

Our heart goes to the chef****, who was so eager and excited to serve us, giving us gifts and taking pictures with us afterwards. Though it was a beef establishment he was truly the goat. An epic night it was!

We wrapped with more Choco Monaka Jumbo and Ezaki Glico Ice, introducing our new friends to our favorite snacks.